Christmastime in Kerala

Merry Christmas friends!

The month of December was one of transition for me, I had to move to a new site and begin forging new relationships. December was also the busiest month for me so far, between my work, Christmas services and visits; I rarely had a day for rest.

I have moved from Mavelikkara to the Kottayam metro area (Pallom to be exact) to Buchanan Institute Girl's Higher Secondary. Buchanan is a very old school that teaches girls from 5th standard to 10th standard, and now has an adjoining LP school for all children standards 1 through 4. Throughout December, I took free classes at the higher secondary school, getting to know the 900 students! Although I enjoyed interacting with college students at Bishop Moore, there was always a problem with motivation. Only some college students wanted to make an effort to learn English, the others just wanted to clown around. The girls at Buchanan have a great attitude about learning. They may be a little shy, but they are eager! My site supervisor and I finally worked out a more permanent schedule yesterday, and from now on I will be taking classes with 5th, 6th and 8th standards regularly, but finding other ways to engage with other standards as well. In my free time at the school I talked with the teachers, who are tickled pink to have me there. This school complex has a hostel, but they did not have a room ready to receive a permanent guest. Until all the necessary arrangements could be made, I was to live at Mandiram's Society* and commute to Buchanan every day, which is an adventure.

December is a crazy time for educational institutions because there are exams at the beginning of the month, and then preparing for Christmas programs for the remaining weeks before Christmas vacation. Every church, school and social club puts on a Christmas Carol Service, in which members sing songs, perform skits and dances, read scripture passages and listen to a Christmas message. The teachers at Buchanan, still admiring the foreigner in their midst, wanted me to choreograph a dance (despite my assertions that I knew nothing of this art form), sing a solo and teach some students an English song. My attempt at dance choreography was a spectacular failure (really a blessing as this duty was subsequently taken away from me) and there simply wasn't time for me to teach the students a song as I had to leave the school at 3:30pm every day to catch the bus back to Mandiram. I was also saved from having to sing a solo because the teacher in charge forgot to write me into the program. I did however help the girls practice dancing and singing--by watching and listening and saying "good job!"

The rest of my time in December was taken up by the Kerala Christmas experience. Christians in Kerala do not view Christmas as the most important Christian festival--that would be Easter and the Lenten season. However, they have developed some very unique Christmas traditions, one of which is the Carol Service. Like I said, most institutions in Kerala put on a Carol Service, which means that on any given day there will be at least 3 services within a 10 mile radius. I attended 10 services, none of which I could refuse invitations to. These services last anywhere from 2 to 3 hours; yes, you read that right, 2 to 3 HOURS of choirs singing, preachers preaching, scripture reading (mostly in Malayalam) and chair sitting. I did participate in the Mandiram service by singing Silent Night with the other volunteers (in 4 part harmony--impressive I know), and was asked to give the Christmas message at a local Marthoma college. Some services were very well rehearsed, theatrical and lively. Some were somber, some informal, some quite comical. After the service there was always a sponsored dinner, which was usually fried rice or biryani (although two services ended in Kappa my favorite food here), followed by plum cake. Plum cake is a traditional Christmas dessert that is similar to fruitcake but actually tasty.

Christmas decorations here are also different. Kerala has adopted the idea of a Christmas tree, but prefers to use trees that are still alive. Keralites hang these trees with multicolored tinsel decorations, balloons and a few small ornaments shaped like the head of Father Christmas. Very few people string lights on their houses, but everyone has a nakshathram, a Christmas star. These stars are made out of cardstock-like paper and are hung from every shop and house. At night, residents turn on the light bulbs inside and the multicolored glow shines on every porch. The stars are my favorite Christmas tradition here, and one I will be bringing back to the states. Some people also make pulkud--straw houses that contain a nativity scene. I was impressed at how detailed these pulkud were, with rock gardens, streams, trees and grasses surrounding the baby Jesus, his family and his admirerers.

The volunteers celebrated Christmas together in Aluva, at Thomas John Achen's house. We went fishing and paddle boating, exchanged small gifts, drank cider and spent time with Achen's family. Although we missed our families and friends back home, we were actually quite pleased with Christmas in Kerala.

(Final years from Bishop Moore Hostel in the Christmas tableau-->)

*Mandiram's Society is a great place, consisting of an old age home, a hospital, a girl's home and nursing school. In Kerala, most elderly citizens live with their children--old age homes are not very common. However, some families are too poor to take care of their elderly members, and they have no choice but to send them away. Mandiram's Society provides free room and board to these elderly men and women who have nowhere else to go. These Appachens and Ammachis love to chat, smile and laugh. Mandiram hospital provides free care to the poor and is considered to be one of the best hospitals in Kottayam, and its nursing school is also well respected. Within the past 10 years, they have also added a girl's home for those who have no family or whose family cannot support them. The society runs on donations, and staff is made up of priests and local seminary students. All the staff here are friendly and welcoming; they are also some of the funniest people I have met in India. I cannot be in their company 10 minutes without laughing. This is one of the oldest sites for the YAV India program, Tyler is this year's Mandiram volunteer.